The Sonic BaitFish was invented with two primary goals in mind: ease of use and versatility.
Ease of use means that anyone—regardless of age—who can hold a rod can catch fish with the
Sonic BaitFish once those fish are located. No high-priced equipment is necessary to be effective.
Versatility means the
Sonic BaitFish is practically unlimited in how it can be fished—whether cast, jigged, or trolled. This is possible due to the body design and the placement of the hook on the jig.
This mentality of simplicity and versatility comes in part from my background—growing up in a poor working-class family. We made do with hand-me-down, worn equipment. We caught fish not because of expensive gear, but because of exceptional lures like the Flatfish and the Arbogast Jitterbug. We trolled the Flatfish for walleyes and cast the Jitterbug for bass. That experience helped form my philosophy: design lures that are easy to use and highly versatile. It’s a philosophy that’s embedded in every metal jig we make.
About “Slow Pitch” Jigging
In the past decade, fishing terminology has gotten increasingly complex and, frankly, confusing. Like many fellow anglers, I had no idea what some of the magazines were even talking about. One term that stood out was “slow-pitch jigging.” This technique involves special jigs and tackles. It's a slow, up-and-down, stop-and-go process as the jig gradually works its way vertically to the bottom—hoping to trigger a strike.
The opposite of slow pitch is “long haul” jigging, where the rod is raised extremely high and then lowered, allowing the jig to fall a greater distance before being lifted again. In the
Sonic BaitFish Tech Guide, we refer to slow pitch as “finesse vertical jigging.”
Why bring this up? Because the most important difference between these two methods lies in line tension. Slow-pitch jigging, especially the Japanese version, is performed on a loose line. I never recommend using a loose line with any of our American-made metal jigs. Historically, a loose line was used when jigs lacked built-in action and tight lines made them less effective. But with a loose line, you pay a penalty—missed strikes and poor hook sets.
Note: There is plenty of information online about slow pitch and other jigging methods from Australia and Japan. Their lures and techniques—often with elaborate designs—differ from American standards. Our designs resemble real, injured baitfish, and that’s by intention.
Evolution of Metal Jigs
Since 1981, I’ve been designing metal jigs—starting with the Crippled Herring. Before then, metal jigs weren’t even called metal jigs. They were “slabs,” “tins,” or “jigging spoons,” and had little resemblance to real baitfish.
The Point Wilson Dart and the Crippled Herring were pioneers of life-like, full-bodied jigs. The Crippled Herring was based on the body of a Pacific herring, while the Point Wilson Dart mimicked a candlefish—a member of the smelt family.
Rocky, the founder of the Point Wilson Company, once said the Crippled Herring “had too much action.” I never did find out if that was a compliment or not. I took it as one—because “too much action” was exactly what I was going for.
Both companies raised the bar for metal jigs. These weren’t just lumps of lead with hooks. They had authentic baitfish actions—darting, fluttering, gliding, swimming, and vibrating—that predator fish keyed on.
Today’s Market vs. Yesterday’s Simplicity
Back in the day, we had very few lure choices. That made it easier to find what worked. Today, anglers are overwhelmed by thousands of products in stores. It’s human nature to chase the next “hot lure,” but some classics—maybe still in your tackle box—have stood the test of time. Why? Because they still catch fish.
Forget the flash. Look for substance—a lure that will serve you for a lifetime.
- (Note: The Crippled Herring gained its legendary status in 1987 in the Pacific Northwest as a deadly vertical jigging lure for salmon, especially chinook in the Columbia River near the White Salmon River. This success led to Luhr Jensen acquiring marketing rights in 1990.)
TIP: Because of its high-energy, tapered design, I believe the 1 oz glow-white
Sonic Baitfish can reclaim the Crippled Herring’s legacy—as its heir apparent.
Keep Your Jig Pure
When a properly designed metal jig is cast in metal, it starts in its purest form of action. That action deteriorates when components like split rings, hooks, or chunks of bait are added. Yes, a chunk of bait may add scent, but it diminishes action.
You can add optional hooks on the nose and tail, including twin nose assist hooks, but ask yourself: why? Almost all fish are caught on the tail hook.
My hook preferences:
- A single siwash-style hook with an inward-pointing tip—wide gap, deep throat.
- A double hook.
- Treble hooks (except a thin-wire treble for ice fishing). Never use trebles on bottom-bouncing jigs—they snag too easily.
A well-designed jig doesn’t need forceful jigging or a loose line. It just needs water. Most of my jigging motion comes from a simple wrist twitch. Observers often assume I’m using live bait. Our jigs do better than live bait because their erratic, injured action is more convincing.
5 Timeless Tips That Always Catch Fish
- Don’t fish blindly: Use your fish finder or watch birds working the water. Once fish are located, stay on top of them and jig vertically. In freshwater, this can produce nonstop hook-ups. In saltwater, focus on incoming tides.Your fishfinder is like having a 5-star fishing guide onboard.
- Stay on the marks. Monitor fish marks and keep your jig in that zone. No finder? “Good luck fishing.”
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Suspended fish? Try these techniques:
- Use a baitcasting reel with a line counter. Drop the jig about 1 foot above the fish marks and use 1-foot methodical lifts. The falling jig will appear on your screen as a zig-zag.
- Cast down-current with the SBF using a spinning outfit. This creates maximum drag and slower fall, increasing the lure’s darting and vibration. Keep your rod at a 45° angle and your line tight. Avoid assist hooks—they kill the action. The tail hook and nose snap provided are all you need. KEEP IT SIMPLE.
- Add a blade when trolling. An Indiana or willow leaf blade (not longer than the hook) adds flash and vibration. Nickel or silver-plated blades work best.
- Keep your hooks razor-sharp.Test by dragging the point over your thumbnail. If it digs in, it’s good. If it slides, it needs sharpening. Use a Luhr Jensen file and only file in one direction—not back and forth. Keep it oiled to prevent rust, especially in saltwater.
Note: On the WDFW salmon research boat in the Strait of Juan de Fuca, we ran a test. On one side, all hooks were sharp; on the other, they weren’t. Over 90% of fish were lost on the dull-hook side. Over 90% were landed on the sharpened hook side. Enough said.
Final Thoughts
Well, it’s time to put another month behind us. Thank you for subscribing to the Mack Attack and for trusting our products. We appreciate you taking the time to improve your skills and success on the water.
Until next time—take a kid fishing, and practice safety. Life preservers are meant to be worn, not stashed away.
– Capt. Pete
