By Pete Rosko
When I developed my very first metal jig in 1981, hook placement and hook style were among the most important decisions I had to make. That jig became the Crippled Herring, designed to imitate an injured Pacific herring.
My first choice was a stainless steel siwash-style single hook, followed by a self-sleeving double hook. A treble hook ranked dead last. During three years of on-the-water testing, the Crippled Herring was rigged with single hooks on both the nose and tail when vertical jigging. Unlike today's Sonic BaitFish, the line (or snap) was attached only to the nose. Looking back, that setup was actually ahead of its time and very similar to the "nose assist hooks" now used by anglers around the world.

Everything changed one day in Craig, Alaska. I hooked an 80-pound halibut that was thrashing wildly on the deck after being gaffed. The 5-ounce Crippled Herring had a 7/0 single hook on each end. The tail hook stayed buried in the fish but the nose hook buried itself in the palm of my left hand. Imagine an 80-pound halibut bucking like a rodeo bronco while attached to a hook driven completely through your hand. That was the last day I fished a nose hook except for ice jigging. Ironically, it wasn't the painful experience that convinced me it was the numbers. After three years of testing, more than 98 percent of the fish were hooked on the tail hook.
When the Crippled Herring finally reached store shelves, it came rigged with a single tail hook while a loose treble hook and wide-bend snap were included in the package. The treble was offered primarily to professional bass anglers and ice fishermen who preferred it. The wide-bend snap, however, has always been recommended because tying directly to the lure can reduce its natural action.
More than 40 years later, those same packaging options continue today.
Choosing the Right Hook for the Job
One of the biggest advantages of this lure is also one of its biggest challenges choosing the right hook. If there were a perfect compromise between a single and treble hook, it would be the self-sleeving double hook. It's extremely versatile when fishing conditions and techniques change throughout the day. Unfortunately, quality double hooks aren't nearly as easy to find.
In most situations, there are four good reasons to avoid using a tail treble hook when your line or snap is attached to the nose.
The first is when bottom bouncing through snag-filled structure. Since the tail is what contacts the bottom first, a single hook hangs up far less often than a treble.
The second is while vertical jigging in turbulent water. A treble can certainly work, but it performs much better when the line is attached to the top of the lure's back instead of the nose. Trebles are also very effective during ice fishing, especially when used on both the nose and tail.
The third is casting around rough bottom, where single hooks again reduce snags. Finally, avoid overworking the jig. Every strike-triggering action has already been designed into it. Gentle, finesse-style jigging produces a far more natural presentation, while aggressive rod movements can actually spook fish and increase hook-to-line fouling.
Small Rigging Changes Make a Big Difference
A few days ago, I accepted a last-minute invitation to salmon jig with a friend. My 1-ounce lure still had a treble hook attached because I didn't have time to swap it out. That decision quickly caught up with me. Although the water wasn't especially rough, I kept experiencing hook-to-line fouling because I hadn't checked my setup before fishing. The lure was doing exactly what it was designed to do darting, fluttering, and vibrating like an injured baitfish but the treble hook kept tangling. Before switching hooks, I decided to change only one thing: I moved the line attachment from the nose to the top of the back. Like magic, the fouling completely disappeared.
The action changed from an erratic, injured-baitfish motion to a smooth, rhythmic "windshield wiper" movement. That attachment point creates maximum vibration on both the lift and the fall, making it especially effective in stained or low-visibility water. There's also a third rigging option. By attaching a single hook to the nose and connecting your line to the tail, the lure falls slower and with a much more subtle action.
Species like kokanee respond especially well to this presentation. Whether I'm casting, jigging, or trolling, I almost always fish with a single hook. If I'm ice fishing, however, I'll gladly switch to a treble on the tail or even use trebles on both ends.
If you're missing strikes or losing fish before landing them, don't overlook hook sharpness. A few strokes with a fine-tooth file should allow the point to grab your fingernail as it slides across. That's a simple test that can make a noticeable difference.
For additional rigging ideas, take a look inside the package. Every size through 3/4 ounce includes helpful illustrations showing the different rigging options and presentations.
Finally, the most important piece of equipment in your boat isn't your favorite lure it's your life jacket. Wear your flotation device instead of stowing it away. Set the example for your children and everyone fishing with you. Every year we lose anglers who end up overboard, especially from boats that aren't equipped with a "man overboard" ladder.
As always, thank you for subscribing to the Mack Attack. – Capt. Pete