By Bob Schmidt
Most anglers know Smile Blades will spin at under a quarter mph, but few understand the hydrodynamic principles that make this possible or how to tune them for maximum effectiveness. Here are some tips for getting the most out of your Smile Blade presentations.
Let me start with one of the advantages of why Smile Blades often work better than typical spinner blades. The inline offset design creates vibration that a symmetrical blade can’t with an asymmetrical flow pattern across the blade’s surface. When water hits the concave side, it creates higher pressure, while the convex side generates lower pressure and lift. This pressure differential keeps the blade rotating even when laminar flow around traditional blades would collapse.
At roughly one-tenth the thickness of a metal blade, the Mylar material of the Smile Blade reduces rotational inertia to nearly zero. In practical terms, this means the Smile Blade can spin at very slow speeds.
But here’s where most anglers miss the advantage: they don’t understand how blade angle affects hydrodynamic signature. Watching underwater video of the Smile Blade in action offers the opportunity to see how slight angle changes produce completely different vibration patterns that fish respond to differently.
If you are not taking advantage of the Smile Blade's ability to have its angle easily adjusted, you are missing out on an extra fish-catching benefit the Smile Blade provides.
After testing various blade angles, we’ve identified specific angle ranges that produce predictable fish responses. A wide angle of approximately 35 degrees creates a slow, 2-3 Hz wobble that’s devastating for bottom-bounced worm harness presentations. The blade creates a deep, thumping vibration that penetrates murky water and draws fish from considerable distances.
Conversely, a narrow 10-degree angle produces a high-RPM spin generating 9-13 Hz vibrations. This creates an aggressive flash pattern that slashes through the water column, perfect for triggering reaction strikes from suspended species or aggressively feeding fish.
The key is understanding that these aren’t just different “actions”—they’re completely different acoustic signatures. A narrow angle works well when fish are actively feeding and need to cut through the noise of a busy ecosystem. Wide angles work when fish are lethargic and need a subtle, persistent stimulus to trigger a feeding response.
This holds not only for walleye but also for trout, kokanee, salmon, and other species.
Stacking Smile Blades of different sizes is a technique based on replicating the deep thumps produced by larger baitfish and the higher-pitched vibrations generated by smaller fish.
My go-to combination for walleye uses a 1.5-inch blade and a 0.8-inch size, separated with 4mm beads. The larger blade produces that deep, 2-3 Hz throb while the smaller adds a 9-13 Hz whirr. This layered approach mimics a bait-ball escape response that triggers predatory instincts in target species.
The spacing created by the beads is critical, too close and the blades interfere with each other’s rotation; too far apart and you lose the harmonic interaction that makes the technique work. I’ve found that 4mm beads provide optimal clearance while maintaining the acoustic coupling between blades.
When using two blades, I rig the 0.8 Smile Blade closest to the fishing rod and the 1.5 closest to the hook. I also inverted the bend of the 1.5 blade so that it rotates in the opposite direction of the 0.8. One more trick to add to the Smile Blade’s versatility.
Species-Specific Rigging Blueprints
My rigging approach varies dramatically based on target species and conditions. For post-spawn kokanee, I use a 16 to 36-inch leader behind an in-line flasher such as the Flash Lite. The length is crucial—it allows the lure to lag behind any flasher turbulence, while the light test maintains the delicate presentation these fish sometimes demand.
Note: While using dodgers for the attractor, the leader length is shortened.
For cold-front trout, I often extend the leader to 48 inches. Pressured fish can become incredibly line-shy, and the extended leader keeps hardware away from their strike zone while maintaining blade action.
Bead selection isn’t random either. Two 4mm beads under the blade guarantee clearance, but I add specific colors based on water conditions. Silver beads in clear water add subtle flash without overwhelming the presentation. Glow beads in stained water provide a reference point that helps fish locate the offering.
Standard clevises can sometimes bind at slow speeds, killing a blade’s rotation and destroying the presentation. Smile Blades do not need a clevis to spin.
I see experienced anglers make these mistakes. Re-bending blades incorrectly can stall a rotation completely—the blade simply can’t generate enough lift to overcome drag. When you check the blade bend, remember, the technique is not to change the factory bend in the Smile Blade, but simply to pinch the blade together to achieve a faster rotation or to flatten it out to achieve a slower spin.
A killer mistake is omitting beads. A bead is always needed as a bearing for the Smile Blade to spin on. Without beads, the blade could also foul on knots and stop rotating. I always insert a minimum of one 4mm bead between the blade and any lure to prevent this issue.
Line twist is another presentation killer that many overlook. Smile Blades create rotational force that transfers down the line. I combat this with a high-quality ball bearing swivel or a bead chain swivel between my mainline and leader.
Speed control at ultra-slow presentations requires different thinking than conventional trolling. I use GPS to maintain precise speeds, but more importantly, I understand how boat momentum affects blade action. When slowing down, blades can stall in the turbulence of your wake. I make gradual speed changes and always monitor blade action with my rod tip.
Water temperature dramatically affects optimal speed ranges. In 45-degree water, fish metabolisms are slow, and I might troll as slowly as 0.2 mph. As water warms to 65 degrees, I can push speeds to 0.8 mph or more while maintaining that critical ultra-slow presentation.
Water currents add another variable that most anglers ignore. A 0.25 mph boat speed with a 0.25 mph current creates 0.5 mph water speed across the blade, doubling the intended presentation speed. I constantly adjust for current to maintain consistent blade action.
If you are using sonar, you will see that interested fish show up as slight marks that track the lure. Aggressive fish create strong returns that rapidly close the distance. Negative fish appear as faint marks that briefly acknowledge the lure before disappearing.
When you see interested but non-committing fish, slow down and widen the blade angle.
The more subtle presentation often triggers bites from fish that were following but not striking. If fish are tracking but not striking, I add a stacker blade to change the acoustic signature.
The ultimate test of proper presentation is consistent blade rotation. Check this by watching your rod tip. You will notice that a properly spinning blade creates a subtle but noticeable vibration that telegraphs up the line. No vibration means no rotation, and no rotation means no fish.
Early season fishing demands different approaches than mid-summer presentations. In spring, when water temperatures hover in the low 40s, fish are barely active. Consider using a single 0.8-inch blade at maximum wide angles, trolling at 1 mph or slower. The goal is persistence—keeping the presentation in front of lethargic fish long enough to trigger a response.
Summer fishing allows more aggressive presentations. Water temperatures in the 60s mean active fish that respond to multiple blade configurations. Start with stacked blades to create maximum attraction, then scale back if fish show interest but won’t commit.
Fall transitions require reading changing conditions constantly. As water cools, gradually slow presentations and increase blade angles. The key is staying ahead of the fish’s changing metabolism and adjusting presentations accordingly.
Color selection for Smile Blades goes beyond matching forage. You will want to consider water clarity, light penetration, and even barometric conditions when choosing blade colors. In clear water during bright conditions, go for UV-clear blades that create flash without overwhelming fish. Overcast conditions call for higher-visibility colors like chartreuse or orange.
Deep water presentations require understanding how the light spectrum changes with depth. Red wavelengths disappear first, making red blades less effective below 15 feet. Blue and green wavelengths penetrate deepest, making these colors most effective for deep presentations.
I also consider the psychological impact of color on fish behavior. Bright, aggressive colors trigger a reaction strike from active fish. Subtle, natural colors work better on pressured fish that have seen multiple presentations.
Last but not least, use a size of blade that corresponds to the size of the forage base that your targeting species is after. Smaller Smile Blades in the spring, increasing in size with the larger presentation in the fall.
The art of micro-tuning Smile Blades for ultra-slow presentations is a method that rewards patience, attention to detail, and willingness to think beyond conventional approaches. When other anglers are struggling with finicky fish, these techniques consistently produce results.
The key is to understand, especially at ultra-slow speeds, that every detail matters. Blade angle, bead spacing, leader length, size, and speed control all work together to create presentations that trigger bites when nothing else will. Master these elements, and you’ll have a tool that works when conditions are toughest and fish are most challenging.
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